In terms of time of day, there really is not a right or wrong time to mow grass. If the facility has lights, turf can be mowed even at night.

If "time" refers to environmental conditions such as heat or drought stress, then it is a good idea to raise the height of the cut and allow the grass to grow a little higher than normal during those times.

The cutting height should also be raised if the turfgrass is recovering from disease, insect or other types of damage.

To ensure good cutting quality, turfgrass should not be mowed when it is wet.

The general rule is that no more than one third of the leaf blade should be removed at any one mowing.

Another way to think about this would be to mow the grass when it reaches 50 percent higher than the desired height. For example, if you are maintaining the turf area at two inches, ideally it should be mowed when it reaches three inches in height.

Of course, turfgrass can be mowed more frequently, but the one-third rule establishes the maximum time between mowings.

The one-third rule mentioned above is the most important.

If possible, try to change the mowing pattern at each mowing. In other words, try to alternate the direction of travel each time the grass is mowed. This helps to reduce compaction problems (traveling in the same path over and over) and also helps to keep the grass from leaning or growing in one direction.

The information presented below shows a relatively wide range in cutting heights for a given turfgrass. This is because the actual mowing height used depends on the variety, level of management and environmental conditions (i.e. shade, season of year, drought, etc.).

As mentioned above, the actual mowing height depends on many factors. However, as a general rule, as the stress conditions increase (high temperature, low temperatures, drought, shade, pest damage), it is advisable to raise the cutting height towards the upper limit of the recommended range.

Of course this can be done, but it is not advisable. The one-third rule should be adhered to as much as possible.

We know that if more than a third of the leaf tissue is removed at any one mowing, the turfgrass plant can experience physiological shock. Root growth is often suppressed when this occurs and if the practice is repeated regularly, turf density will decline.

A poorly maintained mower can affect the health and appearance of the turf area. Dull cutting blades will tend to tear the leaf tissue rather than cutting the tissue cleanly. The frayed ends of the leaf turn brown and give the lawn an overall brown or tan color for several days after mowing. The "jagged" ends are also excellent entry points for disease organisms.

Oil and gas leaks should also be avoided, certainly.

To Bag or Not to Bag, that is the question.

a). When should I let the clippings lie? If mulching is possible, and if the use or the appearance of the area will not be affected, mulching is recommended.

If mulching is not available, it is strongly recommended that the one-third rule be strictly adhered to. Keeping the clippings short allows them to more quickly fall down off the surface of the turf to the soil surface and begin decomposing. The shorter the clippings, the more rapidly they fall to the soil surface and the less disruption there will be to the appearance of the turf area.

b). When should I mulch? If possible, clippings should be mulched every time the turf is mowed. Exceptions to this would be when the grass is unusually high and/or wet. In such cases it probably will be necessary not to mulch but rather bag or rake the area after mowing.

Honda Note:

This is a strong feature of the Honda HRX: because it produces such finely cut particles of mowed grass, it allows the mulched clippings to fall and decompose quickly while maintaining the manicured look that homeowners -- and their neighbors desire.

c). When should I bag? Bagging should be done only when mulching cannot be done or the presence of even a small amount of clippings left on the lawn is objectionable.

The best weed control is a thick healthy lawn.

Proper mowing is an important part of maintaining a healthy turf area. Height of cut can influence weed invasion. A thick or dense turf that is mowed at the higher portion of the recommend range discourages most weeds.

The best weed control is to do the things (i.e. proper mowing, fertilization, irrigation, pest control, etc.) necessary to ensure a thick and healthy turf area.

As dry as possible. If the grass is wet, it won't mulch properly and the clippings will tend to clump together or stick to the mower deck. It is a good idea to let the dew evaporate before mowing. You should be able to pass your hand over the surface of the grass and not detect free moisture.

Move slowly across the lawn. To reduce the volume of clippings that might cause the mower to bog down, it may be necessary to raise the cutting height. It also may be necessary to turn the mower over and scrape off the packed-on clippings that accumulate under the mower deck housing.

In general, proper mowing, irrigation and avoiding over fertilization will help keep thatch accumulation down.

Certain turfgrasses accumulate thatch more than others. Creeping or spreading type grasses (e.g. Kentucky bluegrass and Bermuda grass) accumulate thatch faster than bunch type grasses like tall fescue and perennial ryegrass.

If there is an excessive accumulation of thatch, the turf area can be dethatched. A dethatching machine can be rented from most equipment rental businesses.

Clippings will increase with increasing nitrogen fertilization. Other nutrients such as phosphorus, potassium, etc., have little effect on increasing clipping production.

The inverse is true also. Turfgrass deficient in nitrogen will produce fewer clippings and even deficiencies of the other nutrients will reduce growth.

The only foolproof solution is getting rid of the dog! But since we know that's not likely to happen, there are other options. One option is to put the dog in a run. Another option is to restrict the dog to a certain area of the lawn and move that area around regularly so that the damaged turf has the opportunity to recover.

There are some turfgrasses that are more wear tolerant and therefore will tolerate more abuse than others. For warm season grasses, Bermuda grass and zoysia can withstand a lot of abuse. For cool season grasses, Kentucky bluegrass will sustain damage from wear and recover, while tall fescue is more tolerant of the initial wear but will be slower to recover.

Maintaining the thickest, healthiest lawn is always the best answer. It sounds trite, but it's true. Proper mowing, fertilization, irrigation, thatch and pest control will minimize the damage brought on by dogs or other kinds of stress.

As evidenced by professional baseball fields, mowing patterns can add an extra dimension to a turf area. The pattern is the result of the light hitting the surface of the turf at different angles. This is often accomplished with rollers that lay the grass in contrasting directions.

Homeowners can achieve this effect to some extent by using certain types of mowing equipment. Traditional rotary mowers will establish patterns also, but the effect is less dramatic. In any case, mowing the lawn in perfectly straight lines or some established symmetrical pattern is much more pleasing to the eye versus a haphazard approach. Of course, as mentioned above, it is important to change the direction of mowing as often as feasible.

Maintaining lush, healthy turfgrass under shaded conditions can be a significant challenge. The most important management consideration is selecting the most shade tolerant turfgrass.

For warm season turfgrasses, in order of most to least shade tolerance, St. Augustine grass, centipede grass, and zoysia grass are good choices. For cool season grasses, fine fescue and shade tolerant varieties of Kentucky bluegrass work well. Roughstalk bluegrass, often referred to as Poa trivialis also does well in the shade.

From a management point of view, the amount of nitrogen fertilizer applied should be about half of that used for the same species growing in full sun. Mowing height should be raised to the upper portion of the recommended range. Watering should be infrequent, but deep, making certain to thoroughly irrigate the entire root zone of the turfgrass.

Of course, all essential nutrients (phosphorus, potassium, etc.) should be maintained at recommended levels. A soil test should be conducted to ensure that sufficient levels of these nutrients are present.

It's also helpful to minimize traffic over the area.

Finally, pruning low hanging branches and even some selective pruning of limbs in the tree canopy will allow more light to filter through to the turf surface.

In some cases, there simply is too much shade for any turfgrass to survive, and a ground cover such as ground ivy or pachysandra should be used.

Pests can refer either to disease or insects. In most cases, the dead or dying appearance of the grass itself will indicate the presence of turfgrass pests.

It is often difficult, even for the trained professional, to accurately determine the kind of disease or insect pest present. This is particularly true if the damage has been done and the pest has moved on.

Almost every state has a state operated plant disease clinic where samples can be sent for diagnosis. This is usually done through the county extension agent's office. Local county extension offices can provide more information. In addition to state operated clinics, there are also private labs that offer this service.

As a general rule, watering should be done in the early morning whenever possible.

Enough water should be applied to wet the soil at least one inch beyond the root system. Over watering not only wastes a very valuable resource, but it can weaken the turfgrass plant and encourage disease.

Watering in the winter depends on whether it is a cool season or warm season turfgrass and whether the site is in the northern cool zone or southern warm zone. Turfgrasses in the north are not usually irrigated in the winter, since there is plentiful snowfall or rainfall. In the south, cool season turfgrasses may have to be irrigated. Dormant warm season grasses rarely need irrigation. However, under prolonged periods of drought even in the winter, it may be necessary to water the turf area.

Yes. Water loss is greatest on sunny, warm, windy days when the humidity is low. Under these conditions, it usually is necessary to apply more water and to water more frequently than during overcast, cool, and still days.

Similarly, shady areas lose less water, so less watering would be necessary.

Of course, this depends on many factors: the type of turfgrass, the amount and type of fertilizer applied, how much or how little the grass is watered, soil type, sun or shade, etc.

There are significant differences in growth rates among turfgrasses. There are some Bermuda grasses that can grow an inch or more in a single day. In fact, there is a report of a Bermuda grass used for forage that grows up to 4 inches in one day!

On the other extreme, zoysia has an extremely slow growth rate that might not even exceed an inch in a week. There are grasses with growth rates between these two extremes.

This means not mowing the grass and allowing it to go to seed. Some homeowners believe they can thicken up their lawn by not mowing and allowing the grass to form seed.

Unfortunately, the exact opposite is true. By allowing the turfgrass to form seed, nutrients normally used for shoot and root growth are diverted to nourish the developing seed. Developing seed always has priority over shoots and roots for nutrients.

Also, there is little chance that the seed formed will fall to the unprepared ground, germinate and grow through the existing grass to a mature plant.

This is a very complex question, since there are so many variables involved. The type of grass, the region of the country, the level of management, soil characteristics, etc., all play an important role.

The ideal thing to do is contact the local county extension office for a recommendation for your specific situation. Most extension information is now available on the web and can be easily accessed.

Yes, it is a good idea to test soil every two years. Annual testing is not usually necessary.

In most cases it is not economically feasible or necessary to amend a turfgrass soil with organic matter other than its own mulched clippings. Once a turfgrass is established, it will provide organic matter to the soil through the normal growth process (new tissue replaces old and dying tissue).

Sod provides instant lawn. The primary disadvantage of sod is cost. Also, there are some bunch type turfgrasses that are not available as sod. In addition, there is a limited number of species and varieties available as sod. Seed is inexpensive, but the length of time needed for obtaining an established lawn can be extensive for some turfgrasses. One advantage of seed is the greater selection of species and varieties.

There are several factors to consider when selecting a turfgrass variety for a particular site. They include:

Use of the area: for example, is it a high traffic or low traffic area?

Maintenance requirements: certain turfgrasses require more maintenance and a greater budget than others, as well as a greater level of expertise.

Environmental conditions: does the site call for a cool season or warm season turfgrass? What is the annual rainfall? Will irrigation be necessary? Is the site shaded or in full sun?

Soil factors: what is the pH of the soil? Is it a fertile soil or will it require considerable supplemental fertilization? Does it have good moisture holding capacity?

Expected level of quality: if a high level of quality is expected, certain turfgrasses should not be considered.

As a rule, only cool season turfgrasses are mixed. Warm season turfgrasses are rarely deliberately mixed. This is because of the vast differences in growth rate and appearance among warm season turfgrasses.

It is often a good practice to mix cool season turfgrasses or blend varieties of a single cool season species. This will allow the mixture or blend to adapt to a wider range of soil and environmental conditions within the site.

The one third rule still applies. If the lawn is to be maintained at 2 inches, then it should be first mowed when it reaches 3 inches.

There are two possibilities.

Complete renovation involves removing the old grass and starting over; partial renovation is trying to thicken up and improve the existing stand of grass. The general rule is if there is less than 50 percent of the desirable turfgrass present, it probably is best to start over and do a complete renovation.

If there is 50 percent or more of the desirable turfgrass present, then partial renovation may be sufficient.

Maintenance requirements will vary by model. The owner's manual provides a maintenance schedule. In general, the engine oil, air filter, blades, and grass bag should be checked before each use.

In general:

The mower must be carefully inspected at the beginning of the season. Depending on the usage, cables may need adjustment, the blade(s) may need to be sharpened or replaced and engine oil changed.

The blade(s) and oil should be checked before or after each mowing.

At the end of the season, the mower should prepared for storage as detailed in the owner manual.

A worn or dull mower blade will tend to shred the grass leaf rather than cutting it cleanly. The result is a jagged tip that turns brown rapidly. This, in turn, gives the entire lawn a brownish or tan appearance for several days. The turfgrass might actually appear to be diseased or stressed, but the green color will gradually be restored as the grass leaves grow.

A worn or dull blade produces a poor cut. The jagged tips produced by a worn mower blade are also open wounds for the invasion of diseased organisms.

A properly sharpened blade is also a balanced blade, which reduces vibration, extends the life of the mower, and makes it more comfortable to use.